Pipes—One telltale sign of problem pipes is small bits of metal remaining in the bottom of a plugged sink after you have filled it with hot water. These metallic specks usually reflect light, even in metal sinks, and they may be an indication of corroded, galvanized, metal pipes or a rusting water heater. In addition, you should check the water pressure by running all faucets and flushing all toilets. If the water flow is slow, a plumber should be able to determine if clogged pipes are the cause.

Furnace/Water Heater—The inspector should check for moisture at the base of the water heater and look for holes in the heat exchanger of the furnace. Even a small hole could allow toxic exhaust fumes to spread through the house. Many gas companies will check heat exchangers at no charge. Also, the attic should be inspected for loose pipes or air leaks.

Electric Outlets—Every outlet should be examined after removing the cover plates. Don’t attempt this yourself, as the sockets must be grounded with a ground wire (usually an insulated copper wire connected to the same side on each outlet). In addition, look for GFI (ground fault interrupter) circuitry in all bathrooms, as well as in the kitchen. A GFI quickly cuts off power when an electrical appliance, such as a hair dryer or radio, touches water. If your prospective home doesn’t have such circuitry (as may be the case in some older houses), it will need to be installed.

Water Drainage—Be on the alert for water in the basement or under the house, slightly depressed damp spots on the ground around the house, and watermarks above floor or ground level on the basement’s foundation walls. Clogged gutters or poor grading of the property may be a cause of bad water drainage, and re-grading could be very costly. If re-grading isn’t necessary, a pump may be sufficient to draw out water below grade level. As a condition of the sale, you might consider requiring the owner to bear this cost.

Dry Rot—Inspect under tile, linoleum, decks, and the support beams under the house. Look for a coating on the wood, often black or yellow in color. When wood is infected, it is often soft and yielding to a prod from a screwdriver. Be sure to lift the edge of any loose tiles and linoleum corners to check for dry rot.

Floors—Getting to the bottom of floor problems may necessitate peeling back the carpets if a serious defect is suspected. Extensive cracks in a cement floor or uneven or damaged wood floors may be lurking under carpeting. Being on your toes, literally, can locate a problem. Walking carefully in stocking feet over the entire floor may help detect floor separations and cracks. Floor supports should be inspected from underneath, either through a crawlspace or from the basement. Check the joists and columns under the house for dry rot, cracks, or loose beams. Also, test sloping floors with either a rubber ball or a large level.

Key Concerns

There are two “keys” to securing good protection from problems. The first is to take advantage of a professional inspector’s expertise to thoroughly inspect your prospective home and help ensure it doesn’t turn into a “money pit.” The second is to have the best insurance possible to protect your family and your new home. Give us a call. We can help you create a strong “foundation” for your new home with the proper homeowners policy.